Way way back in June of last year we did a thing – we being my fellow expats Christy, Jaclyn and Emily. We traveled to the land of the Scots to see the ultimate girl band of my youth, THE Spice Girls. It was a triple win, holiday weekend (Whit Monday), Spice Girls, and a new city to explore. So pack your bags and let’s head north.
We arrived in the early evening on Friday in time to have dinner in the city itself as opposed to the airport. Our Airbnb was right off of Rose Street which is a pedestrian street with lots of fun bars and restaurants. It’s just about a 10-15 min walk (uphill though yikes) to the old part of the city so very close to the tourist sites without being in the thick of the tourists themselves. Our Airbnb was fabulous – lots of space, modern, great. From there it was off for some grub. We selected a highly rated restaurant called One20 which was a little outside the main tourist center of the city. The restaurant was a cool wine bar with yummy food. I am not 100% sure looking back it was quite worth the trek all the way there but we did enjoy the experience.
The next morning we hit the ground running to see what the city had to offer before our date with Scary, Ginger, Baby and Sporty. We started with the quintessential free walking tour to get our bearings. The tour started in the heart of the old town on the Royal Mile which stretches from the old Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood. We met our tour guide who was in full kilt attire with the exception of the under garments. Apparently, traditionally kilts are worn sans underwear…. drafty. Our guide was kind enough to share that he was indeed wearing boxers. Thanks for that. From here we went to St. Giles Cathedral. We didn’t go inside but outside were some interesting landmarks. For instance, parking space #23 outside the church is actually where John Knox, of the Scottish Reformation, is buried. Also outside is a heart emblem in the pavement. Cute right? Maybe a good spot to snap that gram with your beau? Well you should know that this was actually where the jail door once was and people usually spit on this spot for hatred of the “justice” of the city back in those times.
The next day we actually went into the church becasue this tour next headed down some an alley called the Lady Stair’s Close towards the writer’s museum. Scotland is home to many great authors or at least served as their home for a period of time – Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, Robert Burns. Sir Arthur Doyle of Sherlock Holmes fame was born here. Fun fact, everyone thought that Sherlock Holmes was based on a professor but now rumor has it, it was Arthur himself. People say he knew Jack the Ripper would disguise himself as a Jewish woman who worked in the slaughter house. A perfect disguise for someone covered in blood.. but now I am off topic. Scotland was also home to Harry Potter write J.K. Rowling so there is Harry Potter inspirations everywhere. I am ashamed to say I did not know this before said tour and, as such, did not appropriately book us for a Harry Potter tour. One of the many reasons for me to return to Edinburgh.
Just past the writer’s museum is the New College which has a statue of Dumbledore! Just kidding it’s John Know. But they look oddly…. similar… perhaps this was the inspiration?
Anyway now we passed in front of the Castle where we were scheduled to visit the next day so for now it was just the outside. They were in the process of setting up for the Tattoo – a military show that takes place in August each year and features bagpipes galore. Obviously we were here in June so did not get to experience the Tatoo but I have heard it is definitely worth seeing. Add this to the list of reasons to return to Edinburgh.
Around the corner and down some stairs from the Castle is Victoria Street of Instagram fame. You likely recognize the color shop facades which fun fact actually tells you what the store sells, although I am not quite sure if that is still true today but it was a thing. This street was also supposedly inspo for Diagon alley which I was definitely picking up on the H.P. vibes.
At the bottom of Victoria Street is Grass market which has a fun history. Here they would line up big stacks of hay and the cows would come strolling down the hill to nom. Then they moved the executions down here. Our guide told us a story of Maggie Dixon or half hangin Maggie Dixon as she is called. Story goes, Maggie was sentenced to death and hung but she didn’t die. Since she was sentenced to hanging and she was hanged but didn’t doe but they could not hang her again or it would be double jeopardy. Around the corner is Harvey’s furniture store. Who cares about a furniture store right? Well, above this furniture store is a cafe – the Elephant Cafe – which overlooks a graveyard and is the sight where J.K. wrote many pages of Harry Potter. Speaking of that graveyard, that was the next and final stop of our tour. Outside the graveyard is this cute little statue of a dog named Bobby. Bobby was the dog of John Gray, the night watchman of the graveyard. Sadly, John died of TB and his dear dog Bobby sat on his grave. Now Bobby has his own memorial stone and people leave sticks for Bobby the dog. Unfortunately at this point it started pouring rain so we didn’t get to explore the graveyard to try and find the gravestones with the Harry Potter character as J.K. borrowed some of these names for the famed stories.
Cold from the rain we warmed up with a spot of afternoon tea.
And now… the main event… the reason we are all here… to SPICE. UP. OUR. LIVES. Each one of us dressed as one of the girls – I of course was Baby in homage to my third grade Spice Girls group.
We took the train to the stadium and arrived to a stadium filled with women (and men) ready for the reunion of the decade. It was packed and it was amazing. I will let the videos speak for themselves.
After the concert was just as fun. The train ride back everyone was singing the greatest hits at full volume. We went out to the bars (in costume) and stumbled into a 90s bars which like… ULTIMATE. But before long it was time to go to sleep again for another day amazing day in Edinburgh.
We were off to a slow start (sleep was necessary) but after a quick breakfast we headed up to Edinburgh Castle. There is a free tour in the Castle a few times an hour and it was a perfect amount of facts without being overwhelming. To keep this from being a full novel, I will just give you a couple of my favorites:
- At 1 om everyday except Sundays, Good Friday, and Christmas, there is a gun fire which historically was used for people to make sure their time pieces were properly set;
- There are canons here but they are purely display on behest of Queen Victoria;
- During the 1800’s an elephant was actually brought to the castle;
- Within David’s Tower was an event called the Black Wedding. Sound familiar? Probably thinking of the Red Wedding? Well the Black Wedding of David’s Tower was the inspiration for this famed episode of Game of Thrones. During the Black Dinner, a black bulls head was served to the Earl of Douglas while the doors were slammed shut and he and his younger brother were executed.
- While we are on GOT, the cells of Edinburgh Castle’s prison have some that are reminiscent of the Vale’s Sky Cells. No. Thank. You.
From the Castle we headed down the Royal Mile to Holyrood Palace. On the way we stopped inside St. Gile’s but sadly no pictures were allowed inside (you could pay for it) and I am a rule follower. We also passed by John Knox’s house.
When you reach the Scottish Parliament building you are almost to the end of the Royal Mile. The building is very different than anything else on the mile given it is a piece of modern style architecture. From here you also get a good view allllll the way up to Arthur’s Seat. I would have like to hike to the top but there just was too much on the agenda this trip. Another thing for next time!
From here the rest of the group wanted to take a rest but I pushed on to the Holyrood Palace. After watching every season of Mary Queen of Scots on the CW (it was a good show) I simply had to see the site of David Rizzio’s death. For those of you know missed this series (a crime really) and are not as familiar with Scotish history, David Rizzio was the Italian secretary for Mary Queen of Scots who was stabbed 56 times in front of Mary in a coup by her husband. You can’t get to close to the actual spot but rumor is the wood is still blood stained. Gory. Besides my being a history nerd, my vaorite part walking around the Palace were the grounds. Very beautiful and peaceful. The Queen apparently has a royal garden party here each summer. I will be waiting for my invite your majesty.
The last stop on our adventure was Canton Hill. The call Edinburgh the Athens of the North because of this very hill. On the top of the hill was supposed to be a series of 60 Greek style pillars – reminiscent of the Parthenon. Unfortunately, the built 12 and ran out of money so here we are.
And here I am out of story to tell. I know this was a long one but Edinburgh was one of my favorite trips. Friends, music, history, what’t not to love. And there is still plenty on the list for me to come back with Bill next time.
Until the next adventure!
Have Passport Will Travel 